Take a sheet of paper. You may merely use it as is, filling it with phrases or drawings, or you possibly can roll it right into a tube, shred it into ribbons of any width, rip or lower it into any variety of squares, or fold it into a ship, hat or peacock. Nicely, the identical applies to sheets of pasta! I’m pondering largely concerning the sheets of contemporary egg pasta that right here in Italy are available in stacks in cellophane-topped packets. For a very long time, I solely ever noticed these sheets as “sheets to be layered” (their goal was acknowledged of their title), however even when the packet has “lasagne” printed on the entrance in massive letters, it doesn’t imply that’s the one means to make use of them; they’re sheets of nice potential, to be rolled into cannelloni or sliced into ribbons of any width.
They will also be lower into squares of any measurement, to wrap round a filling (if the pasta is comfortable sufficient, though it usually isn’t after days within the packet). I lower sheets into 6cm squares or diamonds for basil and different sorts of pesto, whereas for minestrone and different bean soups a 3cm sq. or lozenge is an efficient form and measurement for a spoon. And the shapes don’t should be neat. Fairly the other, actually – maltagliati (that means badly lower) is likely one of the nicest shapes of all, after which there are quadrucci, that are little squares that adjust in measurement from postage stamps to mosaic tiles or to the dimensions of a pencil rubber or pea.
Quadrucci e piselli, or squares of pasta and peas, is a dish typical of Lazio, a minestra that’s brothy sufficient to require a spoon (however solely simply) and dense sufficient to be filling. Conventional recipes, similar to that of Ada Boni, begin with il battuto, which comes from the phrase battere (to hit), which sums up the best way you and your knife ought to strategy the cured pork fats, onion, parsley and celery. These recipes additionally embrace guanciale or pancetta. Up to date recipes, nevertheless, are inclined to omit pork and counsel olive oil, so I’ve, too (as all the time, although, it’s as much as you). There may be additionally the query of tomato – a few peeled, crushed contemporary ones in summer time, or a tablespoon of passata or focus in winter – which provides each depth of flavour and makes the broth blush.
Wait a couple of minutes earlier than serving, so the flavours settle, then add some chopped flat-leaf parsley. Cheese (grated pecorino or parmesan) is crucial for each seasoning and flavour, so encourage everybody to stir some in and cloud the broth. Dried pink chilli pepper flakes are good, too, not least for the flecks of pink amid the pasta squares and peas. A meal from a sheet, a recreation in a bowl.
Pasta and peas
Serves 4
6 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 stalk celery with leaves, very finely chopped
Salt
300g peas (contemporary or frozen)
1.3 litres water blended with 1 tbsp tomato focus till dissolved, orlight vegetable or rooster inventory
250g contemporary egg pasta sheets, lower into 1cm squares
A couple of sprigs flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Grated pecorino or parmesan, to serve
Dried pink pepper flakes, to serve (non-obligatory)
Put the oil, onion, garlic, celery and a pinch of salt in a heavy-based pan, set it over a medium-low warmth and fry the greens, stirring usually, till they’re comfortable and translucent – about eight minutes.
Add the peas, stir for a couple of minutes, then add the water or inventory. Carry to a delicate boil, then cut back to a simmer for 10 minutes. Style for salt and add extra if wanted.
Elevate the flame, so the soup boils gently, then add the pasta and cook dinner till al dente – the ultimate consistency needs to be that of a dense soup, however with seen broth.
Add the parsley, then serve, encouraging everybody to stir some grated pecorino or parmesan and pink pepper flakes into their bowlful.
