The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a good friend baked a stupendous double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a stupendous winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mix of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief record of the best elements coming collectively into one thing rather more than then sum of their elements.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, which means that you would be able to add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized facet of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a variety of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so you probably have it (and it is best to!) make sure to have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her authentic had chard. I exploit a number of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a kind of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up method again in 2005 when she wrote concerning the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply plenty of questions right here that may pop up. The ingredient record for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Form of Bread for this Panade?
The brief reply is an effective, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That stated, I will even argue that a whole lot of that is private desire. If you happen to bake sourdough at residence, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will seemingly lead to a properly structured panade with good distinction between among the elements. The bread selection is such a giant deal on this recipe, each will affect your finish outcome immensely. I realized the onerous method after I used a extra business sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured hunch. You need the bread to place up a struggle and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether. The very best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old do-it-yourself sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve performed crustless variations earlier than. If you happen to determine you’re keen on a brilliant oozy, silky panade, go crustless. If you happen to like your panade to have extra construction, preserve your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we have now round or within the freezer (defrost). I like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however when you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a rooster broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I exploit a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?
You may! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in every of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I want barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with at the very least a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too delicate.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I usually make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which another fillings that I would be capable of pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private desire. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what type you like. You may go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe beneath goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It seems so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely stunning. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you get pleasure from as a lot as I’ve through the years. Due to Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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