Leeks are arduous to return by in Rome, so once I do discover some on a shelf or stall, there may be much more motive to assume: “Pretty leek.” Which is how Simon Hopkinson describes them in his guide The Vegetarian Choice, and an alliteration so neat and proper that it caught and now flashes up each time I see one. And, as a result of ideas are like dominoes, pretty leeks may nicely remind me of the beautiful Linda mug I shared a desk with for every week or so, a few years in the past; and of its proprietor, too, who was additionally pretty, with clean palms (and a pot of hand cream on her desk) and a sister who was an optician in Barnes. It’s humorous the issues we keep in mind.
Hopkinson additionally calls leeks the “softly softly” of the onion household, which isn’t only a good description of their flavour and nature, however can be a reminder of cook dinner them for soups and sauces. Softly softly, and don’t neglect slowly slowly. Which is the place Hopkinson meets Anna Del Conte and her technique for cooking leeks for pasta or rice. That is additionally nice, as a result of it seems like two favorite cookery writers are having a chat and swapping recommendation in my kitchen. First, although, clear the leek, trim away the darkish welly finish and roots, then cut up it lengthways, however not all the way in which, so it stays intact and followers out like a peacock’s tail, permitting all of the grit may be washed away. This central cut up additionally means the leek then cuts simply into half moons.
Del Conte’s approach begins the sliced leek in a mixture of olive oil and butter, then, after reducing the warmth (which is vital), a chunk of crumpled greaseproof paper is pressed on prime. By doing this, the steam is trapped, intently, however with out strain, making a extremely efficient, steamy braise beneath which leeks – and mushrooms for that matter – soften, and switch buttery in seems to be and flavour. Cooked this fashion, and seasoned generously with salt and black pepper, leeks and mushrooms present a easy and engaging condiment for pasta lengthy and brief, dried and recent (most shapes work). Alternatively, stir a overwhelmed combination of sentimental cheese (robiola, Philadelphia or mushy goat’s), grated parmesan and pasta cooking water into the greens, which makes for a extra luscious model.
This pasta dish is a reminder of the worth of pasta cooking water, nicely seasoned with salt and cloudy with starch that has seeped from the pasta because it boils. Right here, it’s used each to loosen the form of cheese combination and for the ultimate mixing, when just a bit (I discover a small espresso or espresso cup full is an effective measure – and automobile – to hold the pasta water from pan to mixing pan) helps ease the consistency of the ultimate dish. You might have considered trying a bit extra grated parmesan on prime, a glass of wine, a second serving to, a second glass of wine, some bread for wiping the dish, a inexperienced salad, extra cheese after which paradise cake.
Pasta with leeks, mushrooms, thyme and mushy cheese
Serves 4
4 tbsp olive oil
20g butter
1 giant leek, cleaned and reduce into rings
250g mushrooms (discipline, button or chestnut), sliced
Salt and black pepper
A number of sprigs of recent thyme
1 heaped tbsp mushy cheese (non-compulsory)
1 heaped tbsp grated parmesan (non-compulsory)
450g lengthy dried pasta (linguine, tagliatelle, penne, fusilli …)
Deliver a pan of water to a boil for the pasta. Put the oil, butter and leek in a deep saute pan, and cook dinner on a medium-low warmth till the leek begins to wilt. Add the mushrooms, a pinch of salt and the thyme and cook dinner, stirring, for a couple of minutes extra.
Press a chunk of greaseproof paper on prime of the greens, flip down the warmth and depart to braise/steam for 10-Quarter-hour, till the greens are tender and collapsed. As soon as accomplished, put to at least one aspect and preserve heat.
Salt the boiling water, stir, then add the pasta and cook dinner till al dente. In case you are including cheese, in small bowl combine the mushy cheese and parmesan, scoop out just a little of the cooking water whereas the pasta cooks, and blend to a thick cream. Stir this by the greens.
When the pasta is completed, drain it, saving just a little extra of its water, or carry it immediately into the vegetable pan, then toss, including just a little extra pasta cooking water to loosen the feel, should you assume it wants it.
