With a roll and a goo, ragu is a satisfying phrase. It comes from the French ragout, which signifies a stew of meat and greens, typically with one thing extremely flavoured added in direction of the top of the cooking. In truth, the associated verb is ragoûter, which suggests to awaken or perk up the goût (style and urge for food). In Italian cooking, the phrase ragu is inextricably related to the closely protected and beefy ragu alla bolognese and ragu alla Napoletana, however additionally it is – quietly – used to explain an entire universe of fish and vegetable stews to go along with pasta.
Amongst them are this week’s recipe, ragu di verdura, from the superb Gradual Meals e-book of osteria recipes, and a spot referred to as Trattoria Conca Verde within the province of Bergamo in Lombardy. I used to be about to move over the dish solely, till I seen it has no tomato (good) and consists of parmesan and cream (wonderful). It is usually a recipe that celebrates leek, which is a hero relating to vegetable stews, as a result of it brings allium flavour and, if you happen to prepare dinner it slowly sufficient, additionally collapses right into a slippery, butter-like texture. It additionally occurred that I had all of the components within the fridge.
At la Conca Verde – which appears to be like just like the form of family-run, hospitable trattoria I at all times hope to search out, so it’s now on my record for a go to to Bergamo subsequent month – they serve ragu di verdura with their very own recent tagliolini rustici made with three kinds of flour: particularly chestnut, wholemeal and farro. Not having any of those flours, I merely made the plain delicate flour and egg tagliolini pictured (though, to be sincere, the best way I reduce it, it’s arguably nearer to tagliatelle). I’ve additionally tried making this dish with dried spaghetti, which labored nicely, regardless that strings don’t have the identical floor space and absorbing capacity of recent ribbons. I’m going to strive the master-catcher, fusilli, subsequent time.
This dish is an effective reminder of how just a little cream brings just a little luxurious. A sliced fennel, orange and watercress salad dressed with olive oil and just a bit red-wine vinegar follows pasta with vegetable ragu and parmesan cream extraordinarily nicely.
Pasta with vegetable ragu and parmesan cream
Serves 4
4-6 tbsp olive oil
1 massive carrot, peeled and diced small
1 massive leek, trimmed and diced small
1 massive courgette, peeled and diced small
1 sprig recent rosemary
Salt and black pepper
150ml single cream, plus additional if wanted
60g grated parmesan, or grana padano, plus additional if wanted and extra for the desk
500g recent tagliolini or tagliatelle, or 400g dried spaghetti or fusilli
Deliver a big pan of water to a boil for the pasta. In a big frying pan, gently heat the olive oil, diced greens, rosemary and a pinch of salt on a medium-low warmth, stirring often, and allow them to sizzle and soften slowly. After about 5 minutes, cowl the pan, decrease the warmth and depart the veg to sweat gently for an additional 10 to fifteen minutes – if at any level the combination appears in any respect dry, add just a little water. As soon as they’re very delicate, pull to at least one facet.
In a small pan, heat the cream, grated parmesan and some grinds of pepper, stirring till it bubbles gently and thickens, then then take off the warmth.
Add salt to the boiling water, stir, add the pasta, stir once more and prepare dinner till al dente. Use a spider sieve or tongs to raise the pasta instantly from the water into the vegetable pan, tip over the parmesan cream and toss the whole lot vigorously, including just a little pasta cooking water to loosen, if mandatory.
Now remember that, between stirring and serving (or strolling to the desk), the pasta may dry and clump just a little; additionally that you simply may favor a creamier dish. So that you may like so as to add one other couple of tablespoons of cream and grated parmesan, warmed as earlier than, in case you are quick in your ft, or just added chilly and stirred once more. Serve with extra grated parmesan for individuals who need it.
