It is usually 5.30am once we drive alongside the By way of Appia Antica, on our method to Ciampino airport and often working late. Rattling over basalt cobbles smoothed by 21 centuries of visitors, and previous excessive, stone partitions overhung with bushes and hiding villas and catacombs, it appears like time journey earlier than extra journey, on the 6.50am flight.
In-built 312BC, By way of Appia was the primary lengthy street constructed particularly to move troops south, and was later prolonged so far as Brindisi in Puglia. After the autumn of the Roman Empire, the as soon as nice consular street declined: some elements have been left to go wild, others integrated into different roads. Nonetheless, sections of the traditional street, such because the stretch leaving Rome, remained an necessary route for folks and issues going out and in of town.
One of many necessary issues stepping into was wine, made for greater than 21 centuries now, from grapes grown within the fertile, volcanic soil round a bunch of cities referred to as Castelli Romani on the foot of the cool, enchanting Alban hills: frascati, marino, albano, genzano, grottaferrata, ariccia to call however just a few. Whereas white wines created from grapes resembling malvasia and trebbiano are carefully related to this space, the immense vineyards have at all times produced crimson grapes, too: cesanese, aleatico, sangiovese, merlot and montepulciano. Cesanese specifically, which many imagine to be a grape that’s indigenous to the Lazio area and named after the city of Cesano, may be fantastic, violet-coloured and tastes of black cherries, rose and juniper, and in addition recent, quite than plodding. Additionally, making an allowance for the simplistic however efficient concept that what grows collectively goes collectively, cesanese is an effective match for the meals of Lazio and Rome. Additionally it is the crimson wine we regularly drink at house, so it’s what I used for at present’s recipe, spaghetti ubriachi con vino rosso e cipolle, which interprets as “drunk spaghetti”, though I desire “merry” with crimson wine and onion.
The precept right here is like Venetian onion and anchovy “salsa” in that the onion is just not fried however stewed, first in butter and olive oil, then in a beneficiant quantity of wine, which reduces, leaving the onion comfortable, creamy and the color of bishops’ socks. You should use crimson onions, however then you definitely gained’t have the satisfaction of watching the white ones change color.
Whereas a few of the wine will evaporate, removed from all of it’s misplaced in the course of the simmering, which is why it is best to prepare dinner with what you take pleasure in consuming. And the proportion misplaced may be changed by consuming a glass. You’ll be able to, after all, use any wine you want, but when you’ll find some, I recommend travelling to Lazio and returning with a bottle stuffed and merry with cesanese.
Spaghetti with crimson wine and onions
Prep 10 min
Prepare dinner 30 min
Serves 4
1 giant onion (ideally white or brown), or a bunch of spring onions
Salt
20g butter
3 tbsp olive oil
300ml crimson wine, cesanese for choice
2 tbsp grated parmesan, plus additional to serve
Black pepper
450g spaghetti
Peel and trim the onion, then slice it into half-moons. (When you’re utilizing spring onions, trim off the darkest ends, then slice the bulbs and pale inexperienced elements.)
In a big, deep frying pan for which you’ve gotten a lid, soften the butter with the olive oil over a medium-low warmth. Add the onion and a pinch of salt, stir, then cowl and go away to prepare dinner down gently.
As soon as the onion is comfortable, add the wine and go away it to simmer for about 25 minutes, till the liquid has decreased and the consistency is creamy. Stir often, and if at any level the combo appears dry, add extra wine or slightly heat water.
Whereas the onions and wine are simmering, prepare dinner the pasta till al dente, then elevate it instantly into the onion pan and toss energetically. Add two tablespoons of grated parmesan and some grinds of black pepper, and toss once more, including slightly of the pasta water to deliver every thing collectively. Serve instantly, passing spherical extra cheese for many who need it.
